Eat and Drink: the best of Chester

Chester is a beautiful spot that has avoided sprawl for centuries. Martin Pilkington shares his favourite places to eat and drink there.

To get a quick overview of the artisan producers in Chester, visit the Farmers’ Market by the Town Hall Square (held the first Wednesday of every month), or one of the alternatives nearby in Ellesmere Port, the Wirral, Sandbach and Northwich to name but four. 

One of the delights you’ll find there is apples – lots of apples. Cheshire has been at the forefront of the British renaissance of traditional apple varieties, and at the last count the Cheshire Orchard Project, co-ordinated by the Cheshire Landscape Trust, rediscovered 33 local cultivars with regionally resonant names like Withington Welter, Elton Beauty and Eccleston Pippin. 

Apples, grown to supply Liverpool and Manchester, were once so important here that a traditional Cheshire Pork Pie (Hannah Glasse gives a recipe) incorporated them (pictured below). It’s a pie that you can try from long-established bakers Chatwin’s, which has a branch on Northgate Street. They’re only selling them on a trial basis, but anyone who’s tasted one will hope they feature regularly.

They make cheese, don’t they?

Northgate Street is home to another foodie hot spot, the Chester Cheese Shop. Here you’ll find a Cheshire cheese or two among the 200+ choices. Whisper it softly, but the most celebrated producer these days is probably Appleby’s of Shropshire, though recently-formed artisan producer Chorlton Cheshire Cheese is getting rave notices. Sadly there’s no PDO protection for Cheshire Cheese, so the glories of the clothbound style – a world apart from plastic-wrapped grout – needs all the public support it can get.

What goes with cheese?

Almost every county claims to lead the way in craft brewing, but Cheshire has more justification than most. There is only one brewery actually within the city walls these days – The Pied Bull is a brewpub with a history dating back to the 12th century, and yet another Northgate Street attraction. 

Look out for other Cheshire-brewed ales in the city’s pub scene, whose health owes much to a large student population, thirsty legal profession, discerning locals, and American tourists keen to try ‘warm beer’. Of particular note are the ales made by Frodsham Brewery’s Barrie Davidson and Mathew Walley of Spitting Feathers Brewery (just two miles south of Chester). Winter visitors really should try the latter’s spiced and powerful Christmas Cracker ale; and in summer Frederic Robinson’s Dizzy Blonde (pictured) is a great thirst-quencher. Also well worth a mention are Bollington Brewing Company and Beartown Brewery.

A big small city

Chester’s resident population may only be about 125,000, but add in visitor numbers, commuters, plus the term-time boost of university students and the total is considerably higher, hungrier and thirstier. It therefore enjoys a wide selection of restaurants covering all the usual ethnic suspects: Thai, Indian, Chinese, Spanish, Italian, French, and a few that may not be so expected, like Brazilian chain Tropeiro on Grosvenor Street (very central).

Chester is decidedly big on meat offerings: Blackhouse Grill is a posh chain place on Newgate Street, and Marco Pierre White’s Steakhouse is worth a visit too. 

For something equally comforting Moules a Go-Go on Watergate Street does what it says on the tin, and quite a bit more. If you’re dragging complaining teens along, Woody’s American Grill on Foregate Street is a good peace offering. An Oreo milkshake may not be classic fine dining, but it provides the perfect accompaniment to a massive burger, ribs, buffalo wings or hot dog. A place to go when blood sugar is low and tempers are rising. 

A dining room with a view

Chester’s attractions include the fine Dee waterfront, the ancient city walls, and Britain’s oldest racecourse just outside them. All have eateries where you can take in the views along with the refreshment. At the racecourse's Restaurant 1539 facilities include a rooftop lounge where you can enjoy modern British fare, brunch or the weekend roast. 

At The Groves by the river, with its terrace overlooking the waterway, is Hickory’s Smokehouse, serving barbecued food like brisket, pulled pork, ribs, and a somewhat challenging 52oz steak. Sited on two thoroughfares, Hickory grabs passing trade with great meaty aromas. 

You can’t go to Chester and not visit The Rows (pictured left), the half-timbered two-tier shopping arrangement whose origins date back at least to medieval times. There are plenty of places for a cuppa or something more filling here, but inevitably some – not all – tend towards the touristy.

A nice cup of tea

Effectively part of the walls is Cafe at the Walls on Bridge Place, a family establishment known for its breakfasts and coffee shop snacks along with more substantial stuff – a good place to refuel between the centre and the river.

It’s small, so if they are full The Three Kings Tea Rooms across the road is another attractive option. The Watergate Deli on Watergate Row South deserves more than an honourable mention for its cakes and coffee, and Lombard House (owned by the same people as the Watergate) on Foregate Street likewise.

The best for last

In what has (perhaps unimaginatively) been called ‘the Ludlow of the North’ it is surprising that a restaurant only opened in 2011 should become the place to eat. The Sticky Walnut’s Head Chef and owner Gary Usher brought expertise gained from people such as Angela Hartnett and Jamie Oliver to his own kitchen, but he has also been determined to make it truly local by using produce from the surrounding area. 

In the game season, for example, they source pigeons and rabbit from Mickle Trafford and grouse from Saughall; in the summer broad beans, peas, raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, and loads of other healthy stuff from a local pick your own farm. 

Down a rather unprepossessing shopping street well outside the centre (but definitely worth the taxi fare), The Sticky Walnut exudes a local feel too, though now it is in The Good Food Guide that may begin to change. It's elegant British fare: grilled quail with peas, crispy lamb’s tongue, turnip and lemon puree, for example. And you can expect great service and a relaxed atmosphere too.

Of a very different style, but highly esteemed by locals, is Caffe Atina on Foregate Street, open for very affordable breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Breakfasts are hearty, with laudable veggie options, and the deli board (again with a vegetarian version on offer) is interesting for lunch. A regular calls it ‘excellent home cooking with a Mediterranean twist.’ 

A bed for the night

Friends asked for a recommended B&B put Edgar House at the top of their list. This genuinely lovely 19th century villa overlooks the river, has a garden that on sunny days could well be the nicest place to eat in the city, and keeps the food pretty simple but luxurious, like the décor. Go for the Eggs Benedict and a glass of something sparkling for brunch, or melt into deeply English decadence with an elegant afternoon tea. To borrow from an old beer ad, Edgar House is reassuringly expensive, but then high quality doesn't come cheap.

A less central (and more affordable) alternative, though still within 15 minutes’ stroll of the station, is Ba Ba on Hoole Road. 

You can view a larger, printable version of this map here

Are you a Chester local? Can you recommend anywhere else to eat, drink or sleep there? We can’t possibly include everywhere here, so please don’t be shy with your suggestions.  

Main image of Chester (Bridge Street) attributed to Crashlanded

You might also like:

Eat and Drink: the best of Brighton

Eat and Drink: the best of Greenwich, London

Eat and Drink: the best of Hitchin, Herts

Eat and Drink: the best of Tunbridge Wells

Eat and Drink: the best of Whitstable, Kent