The Romance of Panettone

Italians find it impossible to speak of anything else but romance when it comes to their sacred dolce.

For me, all the most memorable stories are love stories. So just for a moment, cast your mind to the cavernous streets of 15th Century Milan, where a young nobleman, Ughetto Atellani, has fallen for the pulchritudinous daughter of an impoverished baker called Toni.

To win her heart, he bakes her bread, but fills his concoction with candied lemons, orange peels and raisins.

After several days, it grows tall into a sweet-tasting, dome-shaped loaf, and its sight and profound aroma proves enough to bewitch the beauty. The rest, as they say, is history.
But when months later, the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, marries the couple, he announces - witnessed, no less, by guest Leonardo da Vinci - that the cake-like bread would forevermore be regarded as an Italian delicacy. It was given the name Pan di Toni (Bread of Toni).

Unsurprisingly, this is only one of several tales which claim to tell the true origins of the traditional Italian leavened Christmas cake Panettone (literally, 'big bread'), though what is less surprising perhaps is that it is this particular tale which is most commonly handed down to younger generations. And that's because Italians find it impossible to speak of anything else but romance when it comes to their sacred dolce. In fact, such is their close relationship, that after fierce campaigning, the delicacy has now secured DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta), which not only protects its patrimony, but also ensures that the famous pudding shall now and always remain an Italian dish.

But what is all the fuss about? First things first, Panettone - a golden sponge creation, whose texture is delicately soft and airy, dotted with luck-bringing raisins and scattered with orange and lemon peels - is associated with Christmas, and as an unavoidable consequence, it carries great symbolic value. Italians call it 'The Christmas King', others simply, 'The King'.

As a member of an Italian family myself, I can vouch for the fact that the Panettone's annual reassuring presence at Natale is almost like having another person sitting at the table. It is also true that despite the seven, eight or nine course gastronomic affair which so frequently precedes the pudding section of the extravaganza, it is really only when the Panettone is presented, that Christmas finally begins to get underway.

Versatility is its success. Perfectly sweet enough to be consumed at breakfast with cold milk, it  also is a supreme partner to a short glass of Moscato Spumante late in the evening. In fact, its varied uses stretch further, for what people don't probably realise is that the cake - especially true in Milan - is available all year round, meaning that its greatest fans do not even need to wait for its grand end-of-year entrance. 

That's not all. For while on average five cakes are sold to every Italian household at Christmas, this is only true of the original variety. Because as the cakes have evolved over time, the big companies behind them, Motta, Bauli, etc have encouraged a whole new committed following with new, broadened recipes. Result? The Panettone now has something for everyone – some come complete with Belgian chocolate strips, lemon liqueur, champagne cream, nuts and even, would you believe, cheese.

As one of the country's greatest, most recognisable exports, rest assured that the boisterous and flamboyant Italians go to great lengths so as not to let you forget it.  The Panettone is the ultimate dinner party gift for this very reason, because if its delicious flavour doesn't knock your hosts for six, it'll be the sparkly wrapping paper, silk red ribbons, golden bows or star-dotted box in which it arrives.

And to think you thought that there were only two famous Italian products which began with a P. Buon Appetito.