Nestled in the sunshine state, Tampa Bay possibly drums up images of roller coasters and sunsets by the water – but it's also a fantastic place to visit if you like your food with a sprinkle of history on top. Whether you choose to dine in Ybor City (home to the Cuban cigar factories and chickens with civil rights) or at the regenerated Sparkman Wharf, you're guaranteed to find something tasty.
Click or scroll through our gallery for a tour of Tampa's historic food scene, from Florida's oldest restaurant to a sandwich with a fascinating past.
If, like us, your travels are all about food, you'll want to stay at The Epicurean Hotel. The name comes from the Greek philosopher Epicurus, who believed that 'Pleasure is the Greatest Good' and whose philosophy inspires every aspect of this culinary haven. The hotel comprises the Michelin-recommended Élevage SoHo Kitchen & Bar, the stylish EDGE Rooftop Cocktail Lounge and, just off the lobby (pictured), the Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits wine shop, where you can pick up a bottle of almost anything you enjoyed in the restaurant or bar.
The Élevage Restaurant menu is inspired by a variety of cultures, including Indian, Mediterranean and Asian. The food is innovative and made to look exquisite on the plate. There isn't much we wouldn't recommend when you dine at Élevage, but the baked oysters with 'nduja (a spicy, spreadable pork sausage) go beautifully with a side of the crispy glazed Brussels sprouts, seen here in all their cheesy glory. Executive Chef Jon also recommends the Chilean seabass before you tuck into a dessert or three...
The decor at Élevage is cosy and relaxed, with pieces from numerous local artists dotted around. But if you want to feel that warm Tampa breeze, head up to the EDGE Rooftop Cocktail Lounge for an Espresso Martini or glass of Pinot Noir where you can take in the view and enjoy a handcrafted drink. Elsewhere in the hotel you'll find The Epicurean Theatre, where master chefs and food critics from around the world give classes, lectures and taster events.
The Epicurean partners with local chefs and tastemakers, which is why you'll find a branch of Chill Bros Scoop Shop right opposite the lobby. Perfect for an after-dinner treat, or at any time really, Chill Bros started when a sister and three brothers fulfilled their childhood dream to open their own scoop shop in their neighbourhood, Ybor City. One of the brothers, Max Chillura, went back to the family's roots in Bologna, Italy to learn the art of ice cream making, returning to create American-style ice cream from scratch.
The Chill Bros you'll find at the Epicurean Hotel is bigger than it looks, with your typical tubs laid out upfront and a full-scale pastry kitchen out back, too, where the mix-ins, cookies, candies and other delicious additions are made by a formally trained pastry chef. You can order the usual flavours, but each has a distinctly local twist; Tampa Banana, Guava Pastelito and Cafe Con Leche Chunk are some of our favourites.
With a vision to dramatically reshape 56 acres of downtown Tampa waterfront, plus a reported investment of around $3.5 billion (around £3bn), Water Street's Sparkman Wharf is the place to try some of the newest and hottest places to eat. Fast food spots and restaurants sit alongside museums, attractions and a new outdoor venue of shipping-container food stalls. You're right next to Tampa’s busy cruise ship terminal, with a pirate water taxi on hand to help you get around, but we recommend a stroll so you don't miss anything.
One of the many popular stalls on the waterfront dinging court, Everglazed is for foodies with a sweet tooth. Order classic wings and donuts, plus enjoy gourmet creations like the peanut butter explosion donut. Sandwiches and cold-brew coffees are also on offer, and we can highly recommend the oversized cinnamon rolls.
As well as the more casual dining on Sparkman Wharf, there are also places like bourbon-focused restaurant and cocktail bar, The Battery. Centrally located within the plaza, this place oozes sophistication and makes fantastic cocktails. Exposed brick and leather seating complement the curated whiskey vault and open wine display. Ever-popular dishes include the lobster mac 'n' cheese and cooked-to-perfection steaks.
A short walk from Sparkman Wharf is The Pearl, opened by the owners of longtime local favourite, Ocean Prime Restaurant. A restaurant, tavern and oyster room, here you can order shareable plates and seasonal oysters for lunch or dinner, complemented by handcrafted cocktails. (There are two other locations of The Pearl, in Ohio.)
If you're going to eat oysters while in Tampa, you should do it here; served raw, baked or grilled, they are all delicious. But if you prefer something else from the menu, we recommend the Harbor Salad, which has shrimp, crab and scallops tossed in with avocado, aged ricotta and a red wine vinaigrette. You also can't go wrong with their elevated version of a classic grilled cheese, which is made with brie, pear jam, roasted squash and arugula pesto.
Ulele (pronounced you-lay-lee) in Tampa Heights celebrates a fusion of ingredients from Florida waters and land once home to indigenous people. Its namesake is the legendary princess Ulele, the daughter of the Tocobaga chief, who lived in the Tampa Bay area during the 1500s. Legend says she spared the life of a Spanish soldier – much like Pocahontas did, 80 years later.
This is the beautiful statue of her just outside the restaurant, which has an industrial feel thanks to it once being a waterworks, and the dining space offers views of the Hillsborough River. On the menu, expect plenty of seafood alongside visually appealing dishes bursting with colour. We ordered the mahi-mahi 'Mr. Henry', a fresh fillet from the Gulf of Mexico, blackened and served with a tangy green papaya slaw, charred corn salsa and garlic spinach.
For the table, you can't go wrong with the okra fries and fried green tomato BLTs (pictured). If you're feeling adventurous, the native gator tail, marinated in chilli, dusted in seasoned flour, flash-fried then served with spicy remoulade, is crispy and delicious. For dessert, the coconut ice cream comes in half a coconut shell and is wonderfully cooling.
Originally constructed in 1891, the building that now houses Oxford Exchange has a long history. In the 1920s, it held an arcade of local shops and businesses, but slowly emptied and needed a fresh start. Enter brother-and-sister team Blake Casper and Allison Adams, who wanted to create 'a place to belong' for their local community. With inspiration from the siblings' travels abroad and their passion for books, Oxford Exchange opened in 2012.
Now a bookshop, restaurant, home goods store, workspace AND coffee bar, Oxford Exchange is exactly what Casper and Adams dreamed of. The local community uses the space for a myriad of reasons, with good food, coffee and books available at all times. You can stop in for breakfast (try the salmon and cream cheese on an everything bagel – it's divine) or lunch, and the space is even available as a wedding destination.
The genius of Oxford Exchange is the multi-functional space. You can pitch up for a meeting with an expertly crafted latte from the coffee bar, browse for a new read in the bookstore or shop for the latest home decor in the store (which even has a Champagne bar tucked into one corner). They really have thought of everything here.
Nowhere does diners quite like the US, and Goody Goody Burgers is among the most interesting. Opening in 1925, it served classic fare: burgers and fries, milkshakes, pancakes and pies. Founded by Ralph Stephens, it was the first drive-in restaurant east of the Mississippi River and passed through a few owners – though one member of staff outlasted them all, becoming the face of the longstanding diner.
A major part of the Goody Goody story, Yvonne Freeman (pictured here, left) started out as a carhop for Goody Goody from 1947-49. After a 10-year hiatus, while she had her five sons, she returned as waiting staff in 1959. Yvonne took exclusive responsibility for making the Goody Goody burger's secret sauce, a recipe handed down unchanged from the Stephens years. She also made the delicious homemade pies herself. From 1985 to 2005, Freeman was manager of Goody Goody, although was better known as 'the queen of hamburgers'.
Goody Goody closed in 2005, when a developer bought the property. But in 2014, Richard Gonzmart bought the restaurant with a plan to rebuild the classic diner. Yvonne was vital in the re-launch, sharing the long-guarded recipes she had from the restaurant's heyday. When it reopened in 2015, she was a Goody Goody celebrity, with customers asking her for autographs and wondering if she remembered them from a decade before. Apparently, she did. Yvonne passed away in 2019, but the memories of her live on in this fantastic diner. Stop by for a burger and be sure to take home a branded mug.
Goody Goody's reopening is part of a larger project: Hyde Park Village. With a central fountain and plaza, where you'll find this sign telling you about the history of the place, the area is a modern, upmarket shopping and dining destination, filled with things to see and do for the community and visitors. Stroll along the tree-lined streets and charming brick walkways with a Buddy Brew coffee in hand, and soak up the Tampa sun.
There is plenty to discover in Hyde Park village, but the cupcake ATM was a real highlight for us. Yes, you read that correctly. Sprinkles Cupcakes knows that, sometimes, you just need 24-hour access to cake. This candy-pink machine supplies a range of cupcakes, gluten-free options included, all packed in a pretty box for you to take away.
After a day exploring the shops or waterfront, you may want to kick back with a cocktail. Enter Ciro's, Tampa's answer to the 1920s speakeasy scene. This place drips and sparkles with old Hollywood glamour. You'll need to call ahead to get the daily password, or risk being turned away. Once inside, you'll be treated like an old friend and seated in a private booth complete with gauze curtains to add to the intimate vibe.
Although it's typically the drinks menu people come for, Ciro's offers some tasty treats to enjoy while you sip on your Espresso Martini. The truffle popcorn is great for a light bite, or try the crab cakes for something a little more substantial. Be aware that, from January 2024, the kitchen is undergoing a renovation, so there may be fewer dishes available.
Another part of Tampa soaked in history is Ybor City, a National Historic Landmark District. Founded in the 1880s by Vicente Martinez-Ybor and other cigar manufacturers, it was populated by immigrants from Cuba, Spain and Italy. Arrive from downtown Tampa via bright yellow streetcar, then explore on foot – looking out for the chickens. The free-roaming birds, descendants of those owned by the original residents of the neighbourhood, are protected by law. For more history on the area, book a walking tour with Max Herman, who weaves stories old and new with dramatic flourish.
Founded in 1905, Columbia Restaurant serves traditional Spanish-Cuban cuisine made to family recipes. It's a stunning building, with a menu bursting with local historic flavour. Although there are three locations, the original Columbia Restaurant is right here in Ybor City, and covers an entire city block. It's currently the largest Spanish restaurant in the world – and the oldest continuously operated eatery in Florida.
Dining here is quite the experience, especially if you book a table for one of the flamenco dinner shows. Even the salads are part of the display, tossed tableside so you can watch the creative flair that goes into them. We loved the 1905 Salad: crisp iceberg lettuce with ham, Swiss and Ramano cheeses, tomato, olives, Worcestershire sauce and Columbia's famous garlic dressing.
The menu at Columbia is as dazzling as the entertainment and decor. But you really should order the Cuban sandwich, even as an extra for the table. Freshly baked Cuban bread, sweet ham, roast pork, perfectly melted Swiss cheese and tangy, crunchy pickles, all layered together, make for the best sandwich we've ever tasted. Jeff Houck, vice-president of marketing for the Columbia Restaurant Group, is so passionate about the dish, he's co-written a book about it, The Cuban Sandwich: A History in Layers. And it does have a layered history indeed...
Miami and Tampa have a long-standing debate between them over who first picked up on the Cuban sandwich as it came over from Havana. Between 1890 and 1950, Tampa had the largest enclave of Cubans in the United States, but the Cuban revolution at the end of the 1950s resulted in an influx of immigrants in Miami, with new twists on the sandwich. At some point, salami was included in some recipes, while Miami began using a press to make their sandwich thinner, whereas you'll find a heftier wedge in Tampa.
One ingredient that cannot be debated in a Cuban sandwich, however, is the bread. It must be Cuban. La Segunda Central is the largest baker of Cuban bread in Tampa and delivers its signature product to stores and restaurants (including Columbia) across town. Be sure to pay this historical bakery a visit to learn how it all started with a 19th-century soldier, Juan Moré. He brought his traditional recipe to Ybor, joining a co-op of fellow bakers and cigar makers to open La Segunda.
Now discover the most-loved dish in every US state – and where to eat it