Commonly a dramatic red colour with a deliciously tart flavour, hibiscus is indigenous to every continent where it is dried and ground for whipping into exciting and eclectic dishes, but executed very differently according to the country. In our expert guide, we explore its origins and benefits, and provide inspiration for cooking with it at home.
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What is hibiscus?
Unlike many other flowers, such as pansies, which are often used for decorative effect, hibiscus is a flavour heavyweight in the kitchen. Once dried and ground, it adds fragrance and sweetness to dishes, while it can also be infused in hot water for delicate drinks.
The calyx of the plant – a collection of sepals that protect the bud – is widely touted as the best for cooking with, although the petals and other parts can also be crafted into something nutritious and delicious with a little know-how. Regardless, tartness and vibrancy are signature hallmarks of hibiscus, whether in dressings, drizzles or drink. In our recipe for a hibiscus margarita, we’ve riffed on South American flavours, providing a quick and easy way to try hibiscus for the first time in your cooking.
Thomasina Miers, cook, writer and founder of the Wahaca group of Mexican restaurants, sings its praises: "I really love cooking with hibiscus flowers. They have the most bewitching, deep violet colour and a beautifully tart, cranberry-like taste. They make great jellies with fresh lime and I love to grind them up and toss them in caster sugar – delicious dusted over the ricotta doughnuts in my forthcoming book, Meat Free Mexican, and in the meringues on our new Mexican Mess at Wahaca. While they are best-known in margaritas and aguas, I love using them as a filling for chillies as well."
Meanwhile, modern mead-maker Tom Gosnell, who puts a fresh spin on the world’s oldest drink at Gosnells in south London, has enjoyed getting creative with hibiscus in his range of sparkling canned drinks. He says, “As well as providing the juicy flavour of red fruits, like a luscious sparkling rosé wine, hibiscus also gives a tannic structure, like tea. It plays off nicely against the sweetness of the honey in our sparkling hibiscus mead and provides a real depth of flavour and an amazing pink hue.” He explains: “There are lots of different types of hibiscus, but we use the Asian versions in our mead.”
Interestingly, hibiscus is called different names in different parts of the world, including flor de Jamaica in Mexico and sorrel in Indonesia (not to be confused with the herb), to karkade in North Africa and bissap in West Africa.
Hibiscus origins
Grown around the world, although it thrives in tropical and sub-tropical environs, hibiscus has more than 200 varietals that range greatly in size and colour, which naturally impact on its flavour. Hibiscus is part of the mallow family, a collection of plants that also includes well-known vegetable okra, and the most popular hibiscus used in food and drink are red, purple and blue. Traditionally, hibiscus was used for its medicinal qualities (more on that later), as well as for food preparation and animal feed. When it came to human consumption, it first appeared as a salt to give savoury foods a sweeter flavour, as well as a staple ingredient in drinks, specifically in African-American, Caribbean and South and Central American cultures.
It has since found its way into even more formats, from soups to oils, and is showcased rather spectacularly in sweet treats such as jams, jellies and chocolates. While it’s less favoured in savoury foods it’s complementary in the likes of marmalades, chutneys and sauces. Mixing it into drinks, however, remains its most popular use – whether refreshing hot and cold drinks, or more recently, cocktails with a fiery kick and a colourful appearance. Enigmatic, perhaps, but undeniably versatile.
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Hibiscus benefits
While the health benefits of hibiscus more generally are yet to be supported by concrete science, the medicinal qualities of hibiscus tea specifically have been widely-reported, although consistency is lacking and work is ongoing. According to a study in 2010 by The Journal of Nutrition, the respected American-based medical body, the herbal drink was found to contain many antioxidant properties, their chief benefit claiming to reduce blood pressure.
Another study in 2011, by The National Library of Medicine, the world’s largest medical library, showed that drinking hibiscus tea lowered bad cholesterol in its clinical trials. As you’d expect, the nutrients enjoyed by hibiscus vary according to the part of the plant being eaten, although the calyx – the collection of sepals – serve up a generous dose of calcium, iron and vitamin C. Luckily, you can get a speedy hit of hibiscus without too much hassle, from quick-fix teas to pour-over syrups and spread-on butters, alongside the traditional dried and ground formats for more involved cooking.
Where to buy hibiscus
While still not readily stocked at mainstream supermarkets, in the UK, hibiscus can be found in Waitrose, while it can be easily searched-for at specialist online cooking shops like SousChef, MexTrade and HealthySupplies.
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Hibiscus recipes
Most of the flowering plant can be made use of – including the seeds, leaves, petals and fruits – but it’s the calyces that are most common in cooking. Enjoy a quick and easy hibiscus tea as an entry into experimenting with the ingredient: the calyx and dried petals are steeped in hot water to produce a tart infusion that’s deep crimson in colour. Sweeten, if necessary, to taste. Fancy something a little more adventurous? Hibiscus can be given a hedonistic twist in a zesty cocktail, like in our hibiscus margarita, but feel free to experiment with other classics when it comes to hibiscus. Add when making the sugar syrup in a paloma or give a gin fizz a sweetness and flash of colour.
Try this recipe, a creative spin on a childhood favourite in the form of hibiscus paletas, a more concentrated version of agua fresca de Jamaica (hibiscus tea). The fresh-fruit lollies are a favourite in Mexico and perfect as a cooling snack during the summer. Syrups are also a simple way of enjoying hibiscus, either ready-made and bottled up, or as a speedy recipe. Our strawberry and chilli nectar adds extra sweetness and spice and can be refrigerated to enjoy straight-up as a shot, in prosecco as an aperitif, or over fruit for added flavour.
Derek Johnstone, inaugural winner of MasterChef: The Professionals and executive chef of Rusacks St Andrews, says: "I love hibiscus as an ingredient, not only for the amazing health benefits it gives us, but also for the sweet, delicious and slightly acidic flavour it has. I love using it to make infusions in stock syrups or combining it with raspberry or rhubarb in sorbets. As hibiscus requires lots of sunlight to grow, I often use it with the lovely summer fruits we have in Scotland.”
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Stuck for what to do with hibiscus in a savoury main? Our rib-eye stir-fry with dan dan noodles ladles hibiscus tea over the beef as a sweet marinade. A great midweek supper.
Main image: NIKCOA/Shutterstock