The loveFOOD guide to... cabbages and brassicas
Cheap, healthy and good for you, here’s how to get the best out of cabbages, sprouts and broccoli.
White cabbage
Mainly found in coleslaw in this country, but very popular in Eastern Europe (where coleslaw originated). Has a softer, milder flavour than other varieties and is better braised than boiled. You can ramp up its flavour by mixing it with things like bacon or chestnuts.
Savoy cabbage
Bright green with a strong flavour, this cabbage can take on a host of other flavours, from meaty gravy to creamy horseradish and sticky mushrooms. No good for coleslaw, but you can blanch, stuff and roll the larger leaves with sausage meat or minced beef, and bake in a tomato sauce.
Simon Rimmer's cabbage and sticky mushroom stir-fry recipe
Red cabbage
Slow cooked with warming winter spices, sugar and raisins then finished with a splash of sharp vinegar, this is the winter cabbage recipe. When pickled it is the traditional accompaniment to scouse, the famous Liverpudlian stew that gives scousers their name. Being a firm cabbage it can also be used in coleslaw, but will turn it pink.
Brussels sprouts
Pity the poor sprout, only seen at Christmas, and even then generally loathed. Which is a shame, as when shredded and stir fried in a little liquid with bacon or other wintery flavours, it’s superb. Try steaming rather than boiling to avoid soggy ones.
Cod and pearled spelt with Brussels sprouts recipe
Curly kale
Kale was once one of the most popular foods in northern Europe because of its hardiness. In Scotland, a vegetable patch was once called the ‘kail yard’. Kale also happens to be extremely good for you. Steam, or add to soups for a good result, though it can also be paired with such exotics as big queen olives and pasta.
Rachel Allen's bacon and bean broth
Cavolo nero
Sometimes called rabbit’s ears, these big long stalks from Tuscany have a strong, almost bitter taste. It’s always best to slice the leaf parts away from the central stem, as this can be tough. In its native Italy, it’s served with pasta such as tagliatelle, anointed with olive oil, and dusted with pecorino cheese.
Stella McCartney's winter minestrone recipe
Cauliflower
White, creamy, and star of the show in cauliflower cheese. Cauliflower also turns up in piccalilli, the tangy chutney best paired with ham. Green romanesco versions are now also getting easier to get hold of. These don’t have the flavour of the white version but their striking fractal-like appearance makes them interesting all the same.
Cauliflower cheese with crispy bacon recipe
Broccoli
A green super food, and the purple sprouting strain is also very popular. Steaming is the best cooking method, as you won't lose as much of the nutritional goodness as you do when boiling it. You can mix broccoli with cauliflower to add some variation to a cauliflower cheese. Broccoli also goes well with Asian flavours and stir fries, so add some soy sauce and sesame seeds.
Cauliflower and broccoli stir-fry recipe
Second helpings of cabbage?
Make it don't buy it: coleslaw
Pulled pork and pickled slaw tacos recipe
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