Masterclass: three ways with an ice cream machine

Got an ice cream machine? Then fire it up, and experiment with Katie Caldesi's three different ways to make delicious gelato.

1. Custard based

Proper, Italian ice cream like mama used to make. All rich, creamy gelati starts with a custard base. Because there’s such a high quantity of egg yolk in these types of recipes (six are used to serve 10 people here), great care must be taken, in case the custard scrambles.

The essentials

First, start by making the custard. Combine 350ml milk and 350ml double cream in a saucepan, along with any flavouring you intend to use. Heat over a medium heat until it reaches just below boiling point.

Next, beat together six egg yolks with 225g caster sugar. As Katie says herself: “You can’t make ice cream without a lot of sugar – so don’t be shy with it. Always put in more than you’d expect, because some of the sweetness will dissipate while it freezes.”

Pour a ladleful of warm milk and cream into the beaten eggs, stirring constantly so they don’t scramble. Then pour all the egg mixture into the milk and cream pan, constantly whisking as you go. Continue stirring until the custard reaches 85C (the temperature needed for sterilisation – look for the point when the custard is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon). Do not let it boil, or else the custard will split!

Remove from the heat and mix in the juice from two oranges or three lemons (if desired), then pass the custard through a sieve and add the finely grated zest of one orange or two lemons (again, if desired). Pour into a cool bowl standing over another bowl of ice and water to cool the custard down. When cool churn in an ice cream maker and then transfer to a container before freezing.

Tasting notes: Rich, creamy, tart, not overly sweet… it tastes even better with a drizzle of strawberry coulis.

2. Yoghurt based

“Every Italian gelateria will do a yoghurt-based ice cream – they’re crazy about their yoghurt over there. It’s a good one if you want to cut down on the fat that cream brings to custard-based gelati,” says Katie. Plus there are no eggs in this recipe, so you don’t have to worry about heating the mixture to a particular level for sterilisation.

The essentials

Very simple this one. To serve 6 people, combine 320g Greek yoghurt with half a teaspoon of vanilla extract in a cold metal bowl. In a smaller bowl, mix 100g caster sugar with 140ml milk, then add this to the yoghurt bowl. Set over another larger bowl filled with iced water to chill.

When cold, churn in an ice cream machine. Transfer to a storage container and freeze.

Tasting notes: Easy to make, and far lighter than custard-based ice creams, given the relatively low fat content. Slightly sour in taste and best served with fresh berries.

3. Almond milk based

A dream for those who suffer from dairy allergies. Katie uses only two ingredients in her almond milk ice cream: sugar-free almond milk and sugar. Ecomil produce a very natural almond milk with no added sugar (Katie found the ice cream to be too sweet when using normal almond milk), and it can be found in most health food stores.

The essentials

Put a metal or thin bowl into the fridge to cool. Prepare another bowl full of ice and cold water and set aside. Heat 200ml of almond milk with 150g caster sugar in a saucepan over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved and you cannot feel any crystals on the bottom of the pan.

Pour another 300ml of almond milk into the cold metal bowl from the fridge, then mix in the warm sugary almond milk into it too. Set it over the other bowl filled with ice to chill.

When cold, churn in an ice-cream machine. Move from the freezer to the fridge one hour before serving.

Tasting notes: Very almond-y, and surprisingly sweet. Lacks the depth of flavour that our former two ice creams had, but worked wonderfully when we poured over a shot of espresso ‘affogato’ style. You could also try pouring hot chocolate sauce over it, or maybe adding crushed Amaretti biscuits.

Do you have an ice cream maker? What's your favourite recipe? Talk to us in the Comments box below...

This is a classic lovefood article that has been updated

Katie Caldesi runs the only Italian cookery school in central London, Marylebone’s La Cucina Caldesi

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