Andrew Webb visits a restaurant that helps over 250 young adults from challenging backgrounds get training and experience in the heat of a kitchen.
When we think about sustainability, we often think of the environment and the production of food. But that is only one 'leg' of the so-called stool. The other two are economic sustainability (such as good jobs, fair wages and security), and social equity (namely community, culture and education). Businesses need to address all three of these areas if they're aiming to be sustainable. One business that doing just that is Brigade restaurant, housed in an old fire station on Tooley street a stone's throw from Tate Modern.
A social enterprise
Brigade is a social enterprise, working with those who have been at risk of or experienced homelessness. They are given mentoring, and complete a number of roles in the kitchen. 14 apprentices join the programme every 6 months, and this life changing opportunity provides the qualifications, experience and training necessary to ensure they have the best chance of finding sustainable employment in the future.
Interestingly they usually work with an older client group (23-55 currently) who often are not eligible for such programmes as they tend to target a younger audience. The apprentices will usually have worked through a number of difficult personal circumstances and vulnerabilities and whilst for some, there are still some issues that they are working on, they do not let this impact on their performance within the workplace. In fact the workplace often becomes a retreat for them; a place where they can forget the stresses they may be experiencing outside of work.
Meet the chef
Brigade’s menu is created by head chef and founder of the Beyond Food Foundation, Simon Boyle. He's on record as saying "“It is absolutely vital that Brigade is a successful profit making enterprise. It must be sustainable if we are to continue helping people get a chance to start a career within the hospitality and catering industry.” Simon wasn't there on the day I visited, but General Manager Michael Westenbrink kindly showed me round. Brigade, like many restaurants these days, has an open kitchen. In fact around the edge there's even a bar, where you can sit and watch the chefs cooking. Consequently apprentices get to see customers enjoying their handiwork. this, I think, is important.
Alongside Brigade’s signature main courses such as salmon poached in vermouth and pot-roasted rabbit, the menu includes a weekly special that showcases the work of the apprentices who devise the dish and prepare it each day. The restaurant also offers a selection of starters such as scotch eggs (which I tried - very good) and simple British classics that include shepherd’s pie and burgers. Puds range from a baked floating island to bramble and hazelnut crumble.
Onwards and upwards
Apprentices from Brigade have moved on to cook in the kitchens of prestigious hotels and restaurants such as the Savoy. The scheme sees 250 less-privileged people pass through cooking classes each year and gives them the chance to join a formal apprenticeship with the restaurant. The Brigade philosophy is 'that outstanding food does more than just provide pleasure, it also creates new opportunities, new experiences and most of all, new connections'.
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