'Sex sells', so the saying goes... but do we really need it for food and drink advertising?
Introducing the new ‘beyond alcohol, beyond explanation’ soft drink: ZEO. I went to the launch of it the other day, and after two hours I stormed out in protest. Want to know why?
ZEO - 'sophisticated and complex'
County Hall looked stunningly chic – think Hollywood glitz and glam, with spotlights on the ceiling and cocktail tables dressed in crisp white linen. Five ZEO cocktails, five canapés, and five acts (unicycles and hula-hopping to begin) were on the agenda; the food was great, the drinks interesting, and the service impeccable.
But cometh the fourth cocktail, the tone suddenly took a nosedive. Our ZEO with rocket leaves and pepper was good, the slithers of veal even better, but the act… well, it was a stripper. Dressed as a businesswoman, she came onto the podium and repeatedly did that thing where you make a hanky disappear, each time taking off an item of clothing. “If she takes her knickers off, we’re leaving,” I said to my open-mouthed sister. 30 seconds later, we were outta there.
I did not look back, but if I had I would have witnessed ‘…a grand finale flourish, [where] Martinez (the stripper) retrieves the handkerchief from a truly magical place!’ according to Ursula Martinez’s website. Take what you will from that.
Alienating the audience?
Now my problem is not with the lady herself; Ursula can do whatever she wants, and has in fact built up quite a following according to the reviews on her website. And I really did wonder where that hanky went.
But this was the launch of a ‘sophisticated and complex’ non-alcoholic drink, and the room was filled with journalists and businesspeople, many of whom looked exactly like Ursula did before she started shedding. How, I put it to you, is exploiting the female body supposed to ingratiate me, a potential consumer, to this product? Is it supposed to make me feel cool, or wild, when I drink it?
Personally, I found it sexist and offensive… although to be fair, the male unicyclist did strip down to his chest; this does not comfort me, though. Plus there were no ‘male bits’ on show (despite the fact that unicyclist Count Fettucini sometimes includes that in his act), so why the exception for Ursula?
Let’s face it, using women to sell food and drink isn’t exactly new. Whether it be a sultry pair of lips tucking into a bar of chocolate, a couple of girls getting excited over a fat-free yoghurt, or a happy housewife cooking fish fingers for her hungry family, I often find myself wincing at TV food adverts. The men don’t escape either, often being portrayed as useless in the kitchen – famously a Heinz advert which dared to cast a man preparing the lunch boxes for his children was banned in 2008, because it defied gender stereotypes and showed a same-sex kiss.
The explanation
Sigh. So what did the PR company have to say, when I wrote them an email expressing my disappointment at the evening? They apologised, and explained that “…the choice of theme for the night was coordinated by the events company in order to represent ZEO’s ‘wonderfully unusual’ brand values. The brand has in no way tried to utilise sex to sell, nor does it plan to do so. ZEO is an ‘adult’ drink specifically created for adults.”
They also assured me that a positive write-up of Ursula’s act in The Guardian helped inform their decision… but that was a review of a contemporary circus, where you might expect that kind of thing. No-one expects it at the launch of a fizzy drink.
A slight confession: in their invite, the PR company did allude to a ‘truly unique twist to the art of Burlesque striptease’ being part of the evening’s entertainment, and I didn’t see it because I skim read. But whether I went to the event or not doesn’t change the fact that it happened.
I'm still angry
The PR company say that ZEO is an “adult” drink because it’s complex and sophisticated; but in my opinion, there’s nothing complex or sophisticated about a woman taking her clothes off in order to promote a product. On the contrary, it’s a pretty clichéd marketing gimmick.
I’m afraid I can’t bring myself to drink the two bottles of ZEO I got in my goodie bag, despite the fact that I quite enjoyed the taste. Just as well I don’t get addicted really, seeing as it costs a stonking £5 per 275ml bottle.
How do you think you would’ve reacted to the striptease? Is it ok to use naked women to sell food and drink products? Or do you think I’m just a barmy feminist food writer? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the Comments box below…
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