A complete guide to cooking game birds
From pigeon and duck to pheasant and grouse, we take a look at cooking feathered game.
In Britain, we used to eat all types of different birds, yet nowadays when it comes to feathered game, we are often reluctant to go beyond pheasant. Granted, some birds can be hard to get hold of, but by making enquiries with any butcher worth his salt, you should be able to procure them all.
When preparing feathered game it’s worth bearing a few things in mind. Acids, such as lemon juice, work wonders with older, tougher birds as they help to tenderise the meat. If you want to roast them, be sure to use younger birds.
Lastly, the use of herbs should not be overlooked and consider accompanying flavours you can take from the bird's habitat – think juniper, blackberries, elderflower and sloes.
Goose
An excellent alternative to Christmas turkey, goose is probably better known for its fat and the delicious roast potatoes you can make with it.
Even though goose meat is naturally quite dry, the layer of fat under the skin melts during roasting and helps keep the meat juicy and tender. The rich, flavorful meat of goose pairs well with sharp, fruit-based sauces such as apple, cherry or cranberry.
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Grouse
The twelfth of August is known as the ‘glorious twelfth’, a date that marks the opening of the grouse season. Grouse is almost always expensive. “Two grouse need about four to five acres of heather to rear and brood,” explains Richard Townsend of Yorkshire Game, “You can’t intensify or rear grouse and requiring such large expanses of land, managing their habitat is expensive.”
With the diet of grouse largely consisting of heather, they take on a slight bitterness, which helps give the birds their distinct and highly sought-after flavour. If you do manage to get your hands one, here's an exquisite grouse recipe with beetroot two ways.
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Pigeon
Very different to your common pestering pigeon of the town square, wood pigeon is a joy to eat. Unlike most game birds, pigeon is available all year round and generally has a low market cost.
The breasts, pan-fried medium-rare, work excellently alongside fried mushrooms. You could also try this recipe for pigeon breast with cider purée.
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Wild duck
The wild duck is omnivorous, and the texture and flavour of its meat can be as varied as its diet. There are four main types of wild duck – mallard, teal, widgeon and tufted.
The tufted duck dives underwater to feed on plant life from the bottom of rivers and ponds. It’s because of this diet that the tufted duck can taste muddy and gains its low rank in the duck pecking order.
Mallard is the most common of the wild duck family, an earthy meat, very different to farmed ducks and with much less fat, which can be a shame.
The teal is quite similar only of a much smaller size, while the widgeon has a much subtler gaminess and is prized for this very reason.
Wild duck is well complimented with sharp, sweet ingredients such as cherries, blackberries or honey. Go classic and add a lime marmalade twist or take inspiration from Chinese flavours.
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Pheasant
Due to the rise in popularity of organized pheasant shoots, the supply of birds is actually higher than demand. This almost subsidises the cost of the meat, making a brace of pheasants a sustainable and economical option for a family roast.
Pheasant adds depth to curries with its rich gaminess, particularly if it has been hung for several days. Bacon and other smoked meats, as well as wild mushrooms, are other beautiful accompaniments. For a fuss-free approach, try this pot roast pheasant.
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Partridge
This medium-sized game bird is prized for its delicate flavour and tender meat, and is often much favoured over other game birds.
It's available throughout winter, from September to February, and takes minutes to cook, whether you're roasting a whole bird or pan-frying the breast fillets.
Due to its petite size, one whole bird makes a perfect serving for one and works well paired with apples, pears and white wine. It's also a good idea to wrap the bird in streaky bacon or pancetta to prevent it from drying out. Try this sautéed partridge for beautifully tender meat.
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Quail
European quails are very rare in the UK and only come here during summer to breed, therefore most quails available here are farmed birds. The living conditions of farmed quails are extensively monitored, making sure that the farm environment is as close to their natural habitat as possible.
Quail meat is a lot less gamey and quite similar to free-range corn-fed chicken, making it a good introduction to eating and cooking with game birds.
Don't forget about quail eggs too – a delicacy in many parts of the world – that can add a touch of fine-dining to any dish.
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Game for more?
Gordon Ramsay's Thai red curry with duck and lychees
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