A psychic baker, the Royal Wedding and lots of cake
Kirsty Page talks to Master Pâtissier, Eric Lanlard, about wedding cakes.
Last week saw the announcement of the Royal wedding cake, and lo and behold – who could have predicted that Kate and William would chose a McVitie’s biscuit cake? Eric Lanlard did! Well, not quite but near enough.
“I didn’t know they would choose a biscuit cake, but I did predict they would have something fun alongside the more traditional cake," explains Eric.
"We knew that we weren’t going to be commissioned, I think people would have thought it a bit odd if a Frenchman made the cake for the future King and Queen of England! So I made a bet on what I thought the couple would choose and was spot on!”
The Master Pâtissier
So what’s the story behind this psychic baker? 
Eric owns cake emporium and cookery school, Cake Boy, and trendy Soho bakery, Cox Cookies and Cake, with shoe designer, Patrick Cox.
When he’s not making Marilyn Monroe or gorilla-inspired cupcakes, Eric can be found creating beautiful wedding cakes that look so good you almost don’t want to eat them. Almost...
Weddings galore
“When I came to the UK I was amazed at the amount of money people were spending on wedding cakes and they would be revolting! It was all about how they looked and not how they tasted which I think is the secret of our success, making things look and taste great.”
Back in France, wedding cakes aren’t a big business, with people tending to opt for deserts instead. “For a lot of French people the idea of icing is quite alien. The only traditional ‘cake’ is the croquembouche and most people have a selection of fresh cream deserts. It was quite an innovation when we started offering that here in the UK.”
Pâtissier to the stars
Eric’s clientele reads like a guest list for a Hollywood party, having created wedding cakes for none other than Madonna, Elton John and Claudia Schiffer. So do the A-list stars come with A-list demands for wedding cakes?
“The biggest challenge was for a well known civil partnership and they wanted a pink flamingo balancing on one leg on top of the cake. I got a bit carried away and agreed to do it and it was a nightmare! After two failed attempts, I thought I had cracked it until I came in one morning and saw the flamingo lying, once more, on its side. So I said, ‘that’s it’, and we created an emergency rockery to support the bird!”
So has there ever been an idea so ridiculous that he’s had to turn it down? “I’ve never turned anything down but my face doesn’t lie and they can usually tell if I don’t think something is particularly great! If they come in asking for a multicoloured cake with the bride dressed as superman on top, I would suggest they maybe calm down!
“I like the tradition in America where they have a groom’s cake which is the novelty cake whey they can express their crazy side. This is what the McVitie’s cake has done for the royal couple; it’s showing their young, fun nature.”
Now that Kate and William are off the market, is there anyone else Eric is itching to bake for? “I would love to do Kylie Minogue’s wedding cake. We have a Kylie themed window display in Cox Cookies and Cake at the moment to coincide with her tour. I think her wedding cake would be very pink, very camp and a lot of fun!”
DIY wedding cakes?
“Generally I would say don’t attempt your own wedding cake. Getting married is stressful enough and you should be getting your nails done and having a glass of champagne, not worrying about setting up a cake!
“But if you do want to make a cake for someone else, then it’s a really lovely touch. I can’t stress enough though that you need to practice, practice, practice. You can get dummy cakes which are perfect because you don’t want to suddenly realise two days before the wedding that you can’t pipe!”
Chatting to Eric, I realise how hungry I am getting and decide I need to wrap things up. I’m planning on making a beeline for his Soho bakery which, conveniently, is just round the corner from my office.
Before I go and get my sugar fix, I have just two more questions I’m dying to ask. Firstly, does the King of wedding cake ever get sick of the stuff? “I don’t actually have a sweet tooth and don’t really eat cake! Give me a piece of cheese or a steak though and I’m a happy man!”
And finally, would Eric ever trust anyone else to make his own wedding cake? “No! I learnt my lesson when I had a birthday cake made for me and it looked nothing like what I had asked for! I don’t trust that they wouldn’t stick something horrible and unnecessary on top and make it look tacky. I think I’d go for a selection of deserts instead. Maybe with some fireworks in them...”
From Monday 11th April, Eric is launching a Royal Wedding Cake Competition. Fans of baking are invited to design their own wedding cake on a specially created application on facebook. After being voted for by the public, the top ten designs will be judged by Eric and the lucky winner will have their design make exclusively for them. Better start getting creative then!
Also worth your attention
Eric Lanlard’s hot chocolate fondant
Eric Lanlard’s gingerbread soufflé
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